Whilst the traditional ride-out along the country roads to the British coast is very much part of the biking experience, a smaller but still significant number of enthusiasts will be heading to one of Britain’s many race circuits to put their skills to the test.

Track days are big business. With overheads constantly on the increase, race circuits are increasingly trying to turn themselves into venues that don’t just generate revenue on race weekends but instead, are put to use all year round. As a result, all of the major circuits, including Donington, Brands Hatch, Silverstone and Oulton Park, offer riders with nothing more than a driving licence to hit the throttle on their own tarmac.

So what’s involved?

Costs, schedules and conditions will vary from track to track and event to event. With many circuits subject to noise restrictions, certain vehicles will be restricted from certain events although most standard road-legal bikes shouldn’t be affected.

Booking a track day itself will usually require little more than a valid driving licence, race standard safety equipment (ACU Gold standard helmets, full-zip leathers, boots and gloves) and your own motorcycle.

One thing to consider though is that in most cases, your standard motorcycle insurance policy will not apply to any activity on a race circuit. Whilst insurance is not a requirement for taking part in a track day, it is recommended by most circuit organisers as it protects you from any costs that may result from an accident. This can include damage to your or a fellow rider’s bike, personal injury and any costs that may affect the circuit itself, such as charges for closing the circuit to clear an accident or recover a vehicle as well as any damage to crash barriers or other fixtures. If in doubt, talk to your bike insurance provider.

The days themselves will include an obligatory safety presentation which will cover everything that you would reasonably expect before you are let loose on two miles or more of unrestricted tarmac. The briefing will cover issues ranging from track etiquette, such as overtaking and racing lines, through to riding technique and safety procedures, including flag colours and pit boards.

Following a visual check of your bike and equipment from one of the instructors, riders will be split into groups and taken out on a series of familiarisation laps with an instructor, just to allow you to get acquainted with the riders. From then on, it’s all down to you.

Group sessions will, typically, last for 20 minutes each and most circuits run a three-group system. Between sessions, you’ll have the opportunity to refuel, talk about your lap with fellow riders or get one-to-one advice from the circuit instructors.

Of course, not everybody will be putting in the kind of performance that would have Valentino Rossi worrying about his MotoGP championship and, despite what you may think, not everybody on these track days is an experienced amateur racer. Even if you are a complete novice to race riding, following just the very basic advice will ensure that you have an enjoyable and above all safe day of riding.

Track Day Do’s and Don’ts.

Before you even head onto the road to the circuit, make sure that you have your photo card driving licence (some circuits may also ask for the paper counterpart) that proves that you are able to ride that category of motorcycle.

If you are planning on getting track day bike insurance, do it before the day. Also ensure that you have all of the necessary safety equipment.

Also remember to fill-up before you get to the circuit. Some tracks will have fuelling facilities, although they tend to cost a few pence per litre more, whilst some will require you to drive to the local forecourt.

Of course, for your own safety, checking that your bike is mechanically sound is also essential. The key components of your bike, such as the brakes, chain and tyres are going to be subjected to a lot more stress than they would normally be, so make sure that everything is in perfect condition.

At the track, listen to the safety briefing and take on board what the instructors say. They’ve got plenty of experience of the circuit and you won’t be the first novice that they’ve taught.

Remember that track days are not competitive races. Don’t concern yourself too much with lap times and how quickly other riders in your group are riding. If you push yourself too hard, lap times could end up being the last thing on your mind.

If you happen to come off your bike, follow the directions of the circuit stewards and marshals. Never run onto the track to recover your bike.

Above all, enjoy the day! Riding at one of the UK’s famous racing venues should be an experience to remember, to make sure that you enjoy yourself.

Unveiled at Sunday’s World Superbikes round in Monza, the new S 1000 RR has been loaded up with race-developed technology and a 193bhp engine bolted into bike weighing just 183kg when dry.

That gives the S 1000 RR a power-to-weight ratio of just 1.05 kg for the non-ABS version, with the anti-lock breaking system adding a further 25kg to the dry weight.

Also included is a DTC Dynamic Traction Control system and several riding pre-sets which, at the touch of a button, allow the rider to pick the right setting for the road conditions.

BMW’s styling team have been given plenty of creative licence, with a “cross-eyed” headlamp arrangement sure to divide opinion amongst potential buyers.

Adrian Roderick, General Manager BMW Motorrad UK, said: “Never before has a BMW motorcycle been conceived and built more consistently for supersport riding, in terms of its concept and overall construction.

“However, the new S 1000 RR retains many of the virtues so typical of every BMW to this day: Excellent riding dynamics, combined with supreme everyday riding qualities; precise handling together with supreme riding stability; outstanding performance combined with unparalleled active safety; as well as dynamic optimum ergonomics and aerodynamics.”

The serial production machine BMW S 1000 RR is available to order in BMW Motorrad dealerships with deliveries expected at the end of the year following its 5 December launch. Prices have yet to be confirmed although BMW have described them as “competitive”.

Of course, we’ve all heard how the motor industry is struggling to cope with the credit squeeze and, despite the motorcycle industry holding up slightly more favourably than the car industry; it’s still very much a buyer’s market.

That means that there are going to be discounts on offer for those who push hard enough but be realistic. No dealer is going to be handing out much in the way of discounts for desirable new models with lengthy waiting lists but at the same time, they will be more than happy to see the back of some of the more unpopular models that struggle to sell.

From your earlier research, you should have an idea of what you’ll be looking at in terms of cost so work around that figure. As a guide, have four numbers in your head:

• The list price of the bike. This is your guide price and negotiations will invariably start from here.
• A realistic price that you’d just love to get away with paying.
• A “fair” price that would leave you riding away thinking that you’d got a good deal.
• Your maximum price - never go over this price.

When you have these numbers in mind, it’s time to talk to the salesperson.

Salespeople are well trained in the art of emptying people’s pockets and so dealing with them is an art in itself. Getting a good deal starts well before you sit down with the calculator and even the simple task of introducing yourself can help you get on the right track.

Ask the dealer’s name, tell him yours and shake hands. It’s a simple step but it breaks down a potentially restrictive barrier and increases the chances of the seller wanting to reach an agreement with you. Also make it clear that you are there to buy today. Use phrases like “I’m willing to do a deal today” or “I can write a cheque today if the price is right”. It convinces the seller that you aren’t a “time waster” but you also signals your intentions early on that you are prepared to talk down the price on the ticket.

Draw the salesperson into dialogue about the bike; ask about some of the features and his personal opinion on it. What you shouldn’t do however, is use one of the following phrases:

• “I really like this bike.” - This tells the seller that, you would be very reluctant to leave the showroom empty handed and that potentially, your heart is over-ruling your head. Remember that the seller should be more desperate to do the deal that you are - there are plenty of showrooms, plenty of bikes and plenty of deals out there if this doesn’t come off.
• “I’m new to biking” or “I don’t know an awful lot about these”. - Whilst most dealers are helpful, reputable sellers, there are some out there who could exploit this weakness. For that reason, it’s best to keep your novice status to yourself.

You should keep on being courteous to the seller throughout the process. There’s nothing that get’s a seller’s back up more than a customer that comes across as rude, abrupt and arrogant. Let them go through their sales pitch but of course, don’t let yourself be overly swayed by it.

When it comes to the number-crunching, you’re likely to be presented with a sales contract detailing the list price, various other costs (such as admin fees, registration costs and delivery charges) and a breakdown of the finance deal proposal. Study this briefly and politely reject the offer. “To be honest, this is more than I had in mind” will give the seller a clear but polite indication that you aren’t prepared to pay the price that he wants you to pay.

This is where you get to use something in the industry that’s known as “chutzpah”. Some call it cheek; some call it audacity and the more that you’ve got the better.

Make the seller an offer that you know is going to shock him. He isn’t going to accept it (unless you are unbelievably lucky) but he isn’t going to throw you out of the showroom. What this does is drastically move the point of negotiation. There are plenty of price negotiations that end in “I’ll meet you in the middle” - that “middle” wants to be more in your favoured area than the dealers.

The salesperson will then make you a counter offer and this is where you turn the tables. Think or a reasonable offer (something just under your “fair” price for example) and use phrases like “If you can knock it down to £x then we’ll have a deal” or “I’ve seen it for sale online / in Bike Trader for £x, I’ll sign if you can match it.”

Don’t forget that as well as a discount on the price, you could ask for some extras thrown in to sweeten the deal. That could be anything from a year’s worth of tax through to be it a new helmet, leathers or even a year’s bike insurance.

Be persistent with this and try not to give up any ground. After this, you’re likely to be met by a series of “best offers”, “final offers” and probably even the sales manager but don’t be intimidated - in fact, push the deal.

If you feel that the negotiations aren’t quite going where you want, take a quick break and leave the showroom. Tell them that you just need to go and call a friend. It gives the seller and his manager five minutes alone to discuss the deal and at the same time, makes it clear that you are prepared to walk away.

When you return, they may make another offer. If not, push them again. As a general rule, it’s unlikely that a seller will refuse a fair deal for a third time. If they look as if they are thinking about accepting the deal, say nothing and offer to shake hands - a salesperson finds it very difficult to refuse a handshake.

Shake hands, sign the paperwork and then look forward to delivery date. Oh, and don’t forget to arrange your motorcycle insurance before you collect your new wheels!

Now, I’m well aware that a guide to buying a new bike may not be the best topic to cover as Britain’s banks keep hold of what little money they have with the economy in recession, but it’s not all doom and gloom at the moment. In fact, the motorcycle industry has shown a fair bit of resilience against the credit crunch.

Whilst the car industry slumped in 2008 by 11.3% - a figure that has prompted a series of cut-backs at some of the industry’s biggest names, the motorcycle industry held up more favourably. A sales drop of 3.4% on the previous year, whilst not what the industry would have wanted, was met with optimism by the MCIA. The number of learner-legal motorcycles leaving dealer forecourts was perhaps the biggest positive, signalling that two-wheeled transport continues to attract a new following.

Sales will probably slow down again in 2009 but there will be people out there looking to get their hands on a new, or first, bike and so it’s well worth giving our top buyers tips.

Firstly, we’ll be looking at how best to select the right bike for you. Tomorrow, we’ll be looking at the nitty-gritty number crunching and giving you tips on how to beat the salesman.

The search for that new bike should begin well before you’ve set foot in the showroom and doing your homework will pay-off in the end. This is a big purchase, so make sure that you get it right.

Firstly, decide on your own budget. Consider how much are you are looking to spend on the bike and, if necessary, factor in the cost of riding kit, motorcycle insurance and any other accessories that you may need. Also work out how you’ll finance the purchase. Will it be cash, dealer credit, a personal loan or some other form of finance?

Once you have a figure in your head, you should be starting to get an idea on the bike that you want. Whilst your heart is probably going to want to overrule your head on this, think about what you will be using the bike for. 1,000cc superbikes aren’t designed for getting snarled up in city centre rush hour traffic but of course, they are more fun when you hit the country roads in the summer.

Once you’ve pictured your perfect bike in your head, draw up a shortlist and seek out more information about each bike. Whilst top speeds and 0-60 times are great numbers to look at, make sure to seek out other key information. How much will you be paying in bike insurance for your new wheels? What are the guide prices? Is there a waiting list? Check web forums for comments from current owners - is there a hidden (and potentially expensive) problem that appears to be common to the bike?

By this stage, you may have crossed out one or two options on your list although that’s not necessarily the purpose here. If you’ve done your homework well enough, you should have an idea of the sort of questions that you should be asking the salesman.

The next stage is the trip to the showroom. If possible, take a knowledgeable friend along with you as they should be able to help you with any questions that you may not have thought of and give you reassurance on your choice of bike.

Here, try not to get into the “buying” mindset straight away. Convince yourself that this trip is all in the name of research.

If possible, get a test ride on the bike or bikes that you’ve got your eye on. The purpose of this of course, is to see whether the bike suits you and also allows you, particularly in the case of a used bike, to spot anything untoward. If you can’t have a test ride, at least sit on the bike to make sure that you feel comfortable on board.

Do this for every bike that is currently on your shortlist and you’ll soon develop an idea as to the bike that fits both you and your budget. Now is the time to shop around.

If you are buying from new, then you’ll probably be making your way to a local franchised dealer and aside from a few promotions and offers here and there, the chances of finding any noteworthy disparity in price between dealers is fairly small - they all run from the same book and so they’ll probably all have the same price tags on the same bikes. You may find differences in finance packages however, so look out for any dealers offering 0% offers or attractive APRs.

If on the other hand, you are buying used, there are a few more options. Local dealers will have a stock of used bikes in the showroom and there is also a sizeable private trade, with classified ads packing publications like Bike Trader and MCN. Check the prices from both and remember that whilst trade dealers will tend to charge a premium, there is more security in your sale.

If you are buying used, make sure that you run the bike’s registration number through a vehicle check service, such as HPI. These verification services check, amongst other things, that the bike isn’t registered as stolen, has finance outstanding or has been a bike insurance write-off. Also check the V5C log-book, MOT and service history yourself - the seller should have all of these things to hand.

Once you have decided on your bike, it’s time for the number-crunching.

Read our guide on how to beat the salesman.

Test riding bikes can be a bit tricky sometimes. Dealers often want to know plenty of info in advance, the ride might be fairly short and it can seem a bit cheeky asking to ride three or four bikes in one day. It’s also good to sample a brand that you might not consider owning, without any sales pressure being involved, away from a shop. That’s where a half day Buell Experience is another option.

For £129 you get two track sessions, escorted by ex-racers, plus a sampler off-road trundle along gravel tracks, skills test and a road riding session, again with an instructor on hand to offer any tips and advice. I went to Cadwell Park to ride anything I wanted from the Buell 2008 range and came away impressed with the organisation, the 1125R in particular and embarrassed at how bad I was attempting to ride around cones in a car park.

Yep, there’s no humiliation for a bike journo like being made to undergo a simulated bike test, watched by a crowd of 12 other bikers, then fail miserably. Seven point turns, feet down dabs all over the place and I was utterly unable to negotiate a tight turning circle. Oh well, I can always blame my advancing dementia, but it was good to be given a wake-up call over my basic riding skills.

Chris Curve is the edge of heaven.

Since I saw the prototype 1125R I wanted to ride it on a decent track and Cadwell is one of my favourites. This mini Nurburgring has the famous Mountain, Woodland section and the blind entry, double right-hander, Chris Curve. It is a corner which sorts men from boys and I recall being overtaken there by Steve Plater during a race school a decade ago - Steve was riding one-handed at the time, I was trying my best Jim Whitham impression and thinking I was hot stuff…

But don’t get the idea that the Buell Experience track sessions are road races in miniature. This is no full-on trackday, packed with lunatics all hoping to elbow you onto the grass as they overtake you. Instead Buell keep it laid back, friendly and stress the importance of going home safely, with a big grin on your face.

“The day is about extending your comfort zone a little bit,” explained Matt Llewelyn, ex BSB and Supersport racer, ” so we spend the first session just getting everyone familiar with Cadwell’s tricky corners, enforce a no overtaking policy and show you the advised lines by using cones, and braking markers. If everyone looks OK, then session two features a warm up lap, before overtaking and riding at your own pace is allowed. We do have a word with, or in extreme circumstances, black flag people who mess about, but it doesn’t happen often on a Buell Day.”

The accent is very much on tuition, as well as the fun of trying the Buell bikes. I spoke to three riders who all owned Japanese or Italian machines and were keen to dip a toe into the water with the American brand. Phil from Leicestershire told me, ” I’ve been riding 25 years, used to race here in fact, but fancied seeing if the 1125R shapes up against my Aprilia Mille. Fast riding on a strange bike isn’t something you’d want to do on the road, so this is a good idea.”

Tarmac or gravel sir?

The day includes four main elements, and after a circuit briefing, then opening track session, we were ushered to the parkland edge of Cadwell’s paddock, where four Ulysses models waited us. Breaking into small grousp of three riders we headed downhill, made a right turn in the muddy access track, then rode uphill and aorund the mix of gravel tracks and grass areas at the back of Park corner and Chris Curve. It isn’t a mini Dakar of course, but it did prove enough to test riders who had zero off-road experience.

The XB12XT Ulysses can be thrummed along a smooth-ish off-road surface without any big drama and it did showcase the all-round ability of the bike. I am still convinced that no off-road bike needs more than one cylinder, plus I worry what the repair bill would be when I inevitably dropped the bike one day, but the taster session definitely gives you confidence. That’s the great thing about the day overall, you feel able to tackle new stuff as you get into it.

Next up was a road ride, escorted in a group. We headed off down the Lincolnshire lanes, with me aboard a Lightning model. This was ideal for backroads fun. The Lightning has a sit-up-straight riding position, torquey motor, excellent front brake too. The pace was slow at first, getting a bit quicker, then just as it got very twisty and fun, we arrived back at Cadwell. I wouldn’t say it’s enough to make a buying decision on any bike really, plus you spend time watching the antics of the riders in front, some of whom were getting close to cocking things up on overtaking moves - arguably the most dangerous aspect of group riding.

The only thing I’d say is that the group needed telling firmly that if an overtake looked dodgy, then do not attempt it, the group’s lead rider will wait for you. Plus more time road riding and less time doing the skills test round the cones would be a good idea in terms of selling Buell bikes.

Take the shame, boy.

So to the cones then. We watched as the Buell expert rider make it look deceptively easy, trickling the Lightning around a tight right turn, onto a small ramp, then doing a 360 degree circle, tight left turn, into a stop-box, under a limbo type bar, and finish.

But in the interests of journalistic truth, I have to report that all of us, novice and veteran riders alike, failed to accomplish anything close to a clear run. A few stalled the bike, I did a seven point turn in the circle of cone Hell, plus one guy fell off the ramp, which was only a foot high, and decked the instructor into the bargain. But no injuries, except wounded pride.

A test like this is good, because it makes you accept your limitations as a rider, something that grown men find harder to do than a week’s worth of dishes. I found it impossible to balance clutch, throttle and my body, whilst keeping the bike on full lock and I reckoned I was quite good at slow riding until tackling this assessment. Back to school obviously and I may attempt some homework on a C90 fitted with stabilisers…

Then it was on track for another session. The sun was out, the circuit had dried, except for the Woodland bit and I bagged the 1125R for a good 120mph blast along the straight. That’s something you can’t do on a public road these days without risking a jail term, so I’d say that the day was worth the entry cost for those superb moments of fun and excitement when the 1125R was hammering out of corners and impressing the heck out of me. It is a gutsy, addictive motor and that Buell chassis handles the power really well.

I’ve said for years that the bike industry is in the dark ages compared to the car manufacturers, in offering road tests and sampler days. But things are changing. At last, companies like Buell, BMW, KTM, Kawasaki and others seem to be getting better at offering would-be buyers the chance to try bikes in a controlled environment.

Yes it costs money, but buying a bike you fall out of love with, in maybe just six weeks of ownership, could drop a grand or more from your bank account. Even if you walk way thinking the bikes aren’t what you expected, you’ll still have a great big grin on your face at the end of it. Like everything in biking should be, the Buell Experience is mainly fun and I can take a day of that anytime.

Factfile

Cost; £149 per person, per half day. Includes lunch voucher.

Locations; Mallory Park, Cadwell Park.

Requirements; Age 25 minimum, must have held a full licence for 12 months. Counterpart and photocard licence must be produced on the day.

Extras; Photographer on track, costs £20 per shot for souvenir pic. Opportunity of `hot’ pillion laps with race riders, depending on weather and demand.

More info; visit www.buell.co.uk or call 01652 688 410.

To read expert and impartial reviews of the latest Buell models, check out our Bike Reviews.

Unfortunately, that’s not the sort of statement that is going to make things any easier for the millions of motorists and hauliers for whom the car, motorcycle or truck provides vital links to work, family, friends and leisure. Motoring already takes up a significant chunk of people’s income, once tax, maintenance and motorcycle insurance is factored into the equation, so higher forecourt bills are hardy welcome in the current climate.

Supply & Demand

Depending on who you listen to, anything from the weak dollar to oil company shareholders are thought to be to blame for the high prices although in essence, supply and demand is thought to be the biggest culprit.

Aside from a growth in use in most developed countries, developing nations such as India, China and the United Arab Emirates are also using considerably more mineral products than they used to. Compared to usage levels in 2005, the world now consumes an extra 3 million barrels a day.

But whilst demand is growing, supply is doing anything but. Many of the oil producers in the Middle East, who form much the bulk of the powerful OPEC group, are reluctant to increase supply, (a problem which Prime Minister Gordon Brown recently tried to resolve on his visit to Saudi Arabia), others are already working at full capacity and political unrest in nations like Iraq, Iran and Nigeria (where attacks on oil rigs have reduced output by around 25% alone).

Added to that, market speculation is thought to be rife. The theory is that the weak dollar has left investors looking for more lucrative investment opportunities with oil being a popular option. Those investors hold onto that oil in preparation for further increases, limiting supply and forcing prices upwards. The actual affect on prices is widely disputed however by those on Wall Street.

And then of course, there’s tax.

The biggest issue behind many of the fuel protests that have been seen recently, fuel duty and other forms of taxation form a significant part of the price we pay at the pump.

Petrol in the UK attracts two forms of taxation, fuel duty and VAT. Duty is a flat-rate charge, currently standing at 52.35p per litre of unleaded. It does not alter as the price of fuel fluctuates and can only be changed by the chancellor in his annual budget speech. A further 2p increase in fuel duty was postponed until October by Chancellor Alistair Darling in the 2008 budget although political analysts are speculating that it may be postponed further still as prices continue to rise.

VAT is then added at a rate of 15%, slightly lower than the standard 17.5% rate that we pay on many other commodities. Of course, being a percentage, the amount of revenue raised by this method fluctuates as the price of fuel changes and controversially, fuel duty is included in the taxable amount.

The result is that UK motorists pay the highest amount of taxation on fuel in Europe although surprisingly, we don’t pay the highest price. Research by the AA suggests that based on European average prices, the French, Dutch, Germans, Swedes, Norwegians, Finnish, Danish and Belgians all paid more for a litre of unleaded than we did here in Britain during the month of May 2008, although we do have the second highest diesel prices behind Norway.

So what about those spectacular profits that the major oil companies reveal? Are they gaining from our increasing fuel bills?

Well, not exactly. In recent months, Shell announced record profits of £13.9bn whilst BP’s profits for 2007 were a more modest £8.76bn, both figures which drew criticism from various quarters but very little of that profit was actually made on UK forecourts.

When you actually break down a typical 116p litre, you find that as much as 70 pence (61%) of the price of that litre is made up of duty and VAT. Of what’s left, around 37p is the cost of fuel itself, leaving just 9p profit for the retailer. From that, the garage owner has to cover his overheads including delivery, staff costs, rent and tax.

Instead, the money behind these record profits comes from what is known as “exploration and production” - finding and extracting the oil. Unfortunately for motorists, competition regulations prevent large oil companies from subsidising their retail arms (i.e., the petrol stations) from these profits as it would make it almost impossible for independent garages, many of whom operate in rural areas of Britain, to compete.

It’s highly unlikely that, despite the hardship facing many motorists, taxation on fuel will fall. Fuel duty provided the public purse with almost £24bn in 2006-07 and recent protests by hauliers have not been campaigning for a drop in fuel duty across the board but instead for a duty rebate solely for the haulage industry, similar to the one enjoyed by public transport operators.

Make the most from your MPG

There are things however that you can do to offset the cost of filling up your bike or car. You aren’t going to find your fuel bills plummeting by any means, but there are lots of nifty tricks and tips that you can do to at least soften the blow a little.

If for instance, you’re prepared to travel around the local area for the cheapest fuel, then take a look at www.petrolprices.com. This free service checks the price of fuel at over 9,700 forecourts around the county and will point out both the cheapest and most expensive stations in your area. A quick search of garages within a 10 mile radius of Carole Nash HQ shows a difference of 10p per litre between the dearest (124.9p) and cheapest (114.9p) unleaded - that adds up to a saving of £2 per visit when filling up a 20 litre tank. Fill up once a week and that’s a possible £104 annual saving. In other areas, the savings could be even larger.

However, if you find yourself invariably using the same petrol station or chain of garages for every fill-up, check to see if that garage runs a loyalty or rewards scheme.

Shell for instance has its own ‘Drivers Club” whilst BP will add points to your Nectar card with every purchase. As these accumulate, you can use exchange them in for gift vouchers, discounts on various products and even Air Miles.

It’s also worth keeping an eye out for supermarket incentives. Most of the “big-four” occasionally offer to knock a few pence-per-litre off the cost of filling up as a thank-you buying your groceries in store. As we speak, Tesco are offering a 5p-per-litre discount for anyone spending £50 or more in their stores until July 20 2008. You’ll also come across loyalty points here as well, with Tesco and Morrison’s both having their own schemes whilst Sainsbury’s, like BP, accept Nectar cards.

There are other sneaky tips to offset your costs as well. For instance, if you usually pay for your fuel on a credit or debit card, check to see if you are using the “right” card.

Cash-back credit cards give a percentage of your spending back to you and, as fuel tends to be a regular outlay, you could significantly off-set the cost of filling up your car or bike. What’s more, pay your bill in full every month and you won’t find the interest eating into the benefits.

There are plenty of credit cards out there. Most offer cash-back on almost any purchase whilst Shell and ASDA both offer cards with specific deals for fuel purchases from their forecourts. The best advice here is just to shop around for the best deal. At the moment, American Express is offering up to 5% cash-back in the first year. Using the weekly 20 litre, 115.9p-per-litre fill-up example as before, that would return more than £55 in cash-back over the 12 months. Others, including Egg and Barclaycard, offer slightly less although the cards are more widely accepted.

One other tactic that tends to crop up when talking about getting the most from your fuel tank is to fill up on cold days or at night. Oil becomes denser at lower temperatures and so, in theory at least, you’ll get more for your money. In practice however, there isn’t really any tangible benefit.

Of course, big benefits will also come from adopting a more frugal riding or driving style.

Ditching any extra weight provides a considerable benefit to your mpg. If you’ve got lots of unnecessary luggage in your tank bag, leave it at home.

Inflating your tyres to their correct level is thought to provide a 5% saving on fuel whilst adopting a more sedate riding style can provide plenty of improvements.

Data collected by traffic analysts at Keepmoving.co.uk has suggested that motorway drivers are cutting their speed in an effort to improve fuel consumption, with average speeds parts of the motorway network seeing a 0.9% drop in the first half of June 2008 compared to the same time 12 months ago. Tests have shown that just sticking to the speed limit can considerably reduce the rate at which your fuel gauge needle moves, with the average motorist travelling at 90mph on a motorway estimated to spend £1.20 more on fuel every eight minutes compared to a motorist travelling at 70mph.

Further savings can be made around town. Instead of racing from red light to red light, take it easier, accelerate slowly and watch the savings add up and let’s not forget to cut out any unnecessary journeys. In the 2007 RAC Report of Motoring, one in ten of those questioned confessed to never walking anywhere. Those short trips to the local shop all add up, much more than you probably expect, so try cutting them out. Not only will you cut your fuel use, you’ll also cut your mileage as well, which can only be good for your motorcycle insurance premium!

All of this might sound incredibly dull and dreary. After all, we all want to enjoy our motorcycles, particularly in the summer evenings, and nobody wants to ride around thinking about which vouchers to use in certain garages and if the petrol in the pump is the right temperature. The reality however is that £5+ gallons are probably here to stay for the foreseeable future, meaning that many of us are experiencing higher commuting and transport costs. The tips above aren’t going to offer huge discounts, but they may well help to soften the blow in the middle of the current credit crunch.

Because of this, many motorcyclists may be carrying pillion passengers without taking all the necessary precautions to ensure the comfort, enjoyment and above all, the safety of both themselves and their passenger.

Whilst most motorcycles do feature a pillion seat, certain bikes, particularly tourers like the Honda Goldwing or Yamaha Virago, are designed with passenger travel very much in mind. Others however, make carrying a friend much more difficult and so it is important to prepare yourself, your bike and your passenger for the journey ahead.

There are things that you can do before you take to the road and the first and probably most important thing that you should do is look at both your licence and motorcycle insurance policy to see if they allow you to carry a pillion passenger.

Those of you with a full motorcycle licence (or moped licence for moped riders) are permitted to carry a pillion passenger whilst riders with only a CBT are not permitted to ride with a passenger on board. As a simple rule, if you’ve got L-plates, you’re riding solo.

Your motorcycle insurance policy will also dictate whether you can be accompanied on your bike. Many bike insurance policies consider pillion passenger cover as an optional extra, so consult your insurance documents or contact your insurer before you start the engine to check that you are covered. Remember, it is illegal to take to the road without sufficient insurance cover.

But if you can get on the road, how can you ensure that your journey, whether you are the one in control or the one holding on, is both comfortable and safe?

Here are a few tips to ensure that everything goes smoothly.

Maintain the bike.

Whilst bike maintenance is something which we should all take seriously as a matter of course, remember that any problem could become even worse when carrying another rider.

Dress properly.

This may sound strange, but when picking out your clothing for the ride, dress in what you would most like to be wearing should you be unfortunate enough to crash. Helmet, leathers, gloves, boots - everything you’ll need to protect you from injury. Remember that as a pillion, statistics say that you are much more likely to suffer injury that the rider.

Mount the bike, hold on and stay on board.

If you are the passenger, let the driver position the bike before you attempt to climb aboard. Getting the bike out of a parking spot is easier with one person on the bike. Once the rider is ready, step over the bike without touching the foot pegs, sit on the seat and bring your feet onto the pegs.

You can hold on to either the rider or the hand rails, but make sure that you hold on at all times. In-experienced passengers are recommended to hold around the waist of the rider as it allows them to follow the natural lean of the bike. Many motorcycle accessory retailers also stock belts which wrap around the rider and provide the passenger with handles to hold on to. Others advise having one hand around the rider’s waist and another on his back or shoulder. This prevents you falling off the bike when during acceleration and keeps you from banging helmets together when braking. Use whichever system you are comfortable with.

Once you are on the bike, make sure that you stay on it. When the rider puts his foot on the ground at a junction or traffic lights, don’t put your foot down as well. If you decide to plant your foot on the floor and the rider sets off, you could suffer serious injury.

Ride sensibly.

A bit of a no-brainer really. Despite what you may see on the television, the aim isn’t to give your passenger the fright of their life. Make sure that both of you reach your destination safely.

Don’t sit up straight.

If you are a passenger, don’t sit up straight as the bike leans as this can seriously affect the handling and makes it more difficult for the rider to right the bike back up after completing the turn. At the same time, don’t lean excessively as this can lead to sudden shifts in the bikes’ centre of gravity.

Pay attention to the road.

You might not be the one in control of the bike but that doesn’t mean that you can take your eyes off the road. Any sudden, unexpected steering movement or change in speed and you could end up being thrown from the bike. Keep your eyes on the road so you are aware of things that could cause the rider to change course.

Dismount carefully

As with mounting the bike, make sure that the rider is ready for the pillion passenger to dismount the bike before you take your feet off the foot pegs. The passenger should dismount first.

Enjoy the journey.

Whilst carrying a pillion passenger brings risks, riding together can be extremely enjoyable if done properly. Accessories such as intercom systems are very popular for bikers looking to communicate throughout the journey, so climb aboard and enjoy the ride.

The Insidebikes quick check-list for carrying a pillion passenger:

1. Check your licence.

2. Check your motorcycle insurance documents.

3. Dress for safety.

4. Mount correctly.

5. Ride sensibly.

6. Hold on and stay on.

7. Follow the bike.

8. Keep your eyes on the road.

9. Dismount when the rider is ready.

10. Have fun!

Alastair Walker reports.

Like most bikers, I’ve been riding motorcycles for over 30 years and always worn a helmet, mainly because it’s the law but also because it’s a sensible thing to do. A low speed head injury can kill you - simple as that.

But for most of that time I’ve never really known how bike helmets were designed, manufactured and tested.

The only way to figure out if a helmet was good was to ask other bikers, or use your own judgement when trying them on in a shop. I was also surprised to learn recently that the ECE 22.05 standard is set by a United Nations funded testing body - not the EU. But alongside the existing ECE regs, the UK government’s new SHARP (Safety Helmet Assessment Ratings Programme) came onstream in Spring 2008, offering ratings from one to five stars for most popular biking lids. It’s intended to offer buyers a useful guide as regards the helmet’s likely impact resistance in a crash. SHARP are buying the most popular lids, then lab testing them.

The initial results are surprising, as some helmets from top brands like Arai, Shoei and AGV only made three stars, whilst budget brand products from Nitro or Lazer were rated five out of five in the SHARP tests. All of which begs the question; what testing methods are SHARP using and is a cheaper helmet just as good as a more expensive one?

The SHARP Test Regime

SHARP tests are designed to log the effects of a specific impact of between 6.5 to 8.5 metres per second on specially selected points of the helmet’s outer shell - both head-on, and a simulated glancing blow. The impact speed is slightly higher in terms of speed than the existing ECE 22.05 standard but SHARP don’t do any testing on the chinbar section of the lid, or do a repeated impact on one area - like Arai do in their own factory tests for example. Arai also drop a 3kg heavy, piercing metal spike on their helmets, which SHARP - and many other manufacturers - don’t feel is needed.

Ferry Brouwer, who has 27 years experience at Arai told insidebikes; ” The ECE and SHARP tests are on specific areas of the shell, identified to manufacturers in advance of testing, which means a manufacturer is able to add some extra material at those points to make sure the product will pass the test. In the USA the test points are chose by Snell at random - a far better system in my opinion.”

The SHARP tests don’t include a test of the chinstrap fastening on motorcycle helmets, which many bikers think is a crucial thing to test. So many bikers suffer serious injury because the helmet strap breaks, then the lid flies off during a crash.

Experience Matters - A Personal View

For my money, the SHARP tests are a step forwards in terms of lab-based testing - they exceed the existing standards, which is a good thing. But they don’t go far enough.

What we need is random impact testing, like Snell do in the USA, plus some stern action by UK Trading Standards against dodgy helmet makers who flout the existing rules. Having done some research, I couldn’t find one importer or helmet factory who has ever been prosecuted in the UK, for selling unsafe, or dangerous goods.

That cannot be right, as most experienced bikers have seen outdated, damaged, or poorly made lids on sale at various bike shows. Surely the time has come to stop the unregulated sale of helmets which are so ridiculously cheap, that questions must be asked regarding their protective value?

After 30 years riding motorcycles, I would offer the following tips and advice when buying any helmet;
1. Make sure it fits right - get your head accurately measured. The helmet should fit snugly, with very little side-to-side, or up and down movement, when being worn.

2. Never place gloves, keys, wallets or anything else inside your helmet - the inner EPS lining is vulnerable to damage by sharp objects, dirt, or human sweat, which accelerates the wear and tear on the inner lining.

3. Look for a `D ring’ type chinstrap fastening, rather than the mini `seatbelt’ type clip. The adjustment via the D ring tends to be more precise in daily use.

4. A flip-up helmet, where the chin section can be raised, may be more convenient to wear, but they are not as strong as a full face type lid - do you see anyone race in GP or Superbikes wearing a `flip-front’ type helmet?

5. An ACU Gold sticker means very little - the ACU do not actually test helmets, they merely approve them for race use based on a visual inspection.

6. The old Bell helmets slogan remains true in my book; If you have a ten dollar head, buy a ten dollar helmet. Always buy the best lid you can afford, and replace it after 5-6 years, unless it suffers a serious blow to the shell, some solvent or other damage etc. in which case it will probably need replacing immediately after discovering the damage.

The short answer is the best you can afford. A good helmet is crucial as the head is the most vulnerable part of your body; brands like Arai, Shoei, Schuberth, HJC, AGV are all good choices, but there are many more. 

How do I test a helmet’s fit?

When you try on a helmet, test to see if it moves side-to-side excessively, or up and down on your head. The fit should be snug, but not so tight that it feels uncomfortable. Brands like Arai have three or more different helmet outer shell sizes, plus variable inner padding sizes, so you have a better chance at achieving a perfect fit. 

I’m just riding a few miles to work – do I need loads of kit?

If you’re commuting then some ankle length boots, waterproof trousers (with CE approved armour inserts) and a well made leather or textile jacket should be the minimum to aim for. You should choose some good gloves too, which feature visibly strong stitching on the seams and reinforced palm sections if possible. 

Good clothing brands we would recommend include; Frank Thomas, BKS Leathers, AGV Sport, Weise, Hein Gericke,  Bering, Held, Furygan and Dainese – but there are many more in the shops.

Choose clothing carefully, make sure it fits comfortably, yet is snug and warm – the wind/rain can chill your body’s core temperature and make you less able to concentrate on your riding.  

How do I know if gloves are the right fit?

When testing gloves, try doing up the chin strap on a helmet, or simulating using motorbike controls, to make sure all your fingers – and thumbs – have free movement and can achieve fine control.  

You fingers should reach almost to the end of the glove’s fingertip area, and the strap around your wrist should fit snug, yet comfortably. Remember leather `gives’ with some wear, so a slightly tighter fit is better than a loose fit in the longer term.

Most importantly, you need to be sure that gloves won’t pinch in any way, reducing the circulation of blood in your hands. 

Good glove brands include; AGV, Dainese, Held, RST, Rev It, Weise, Hein Gericke and so on.

What are the best boot brands? 

If you’re shopping for boots then look for something with a GoreTex waterproof membrane built-in, strong, Kevlar re-inforced support in the ankle area, plus an anti-bacterial lining to keep them smelling sweeter.

All leather boots will leak eventually on a wet ride, but products like G-wax help keep them resistant to showers. If your boots get soaked, dry them slowly, as placing them on hot radiators can crack the leather slightly, or allow layers inside to unpeel, or distort a little bit.

Good boot brands include; Daytona, Altberg, Sidi, Puma, Alpinestars, Weise, Frank Thomas and many more.

I own a car and want a scooter for commuting, do I need a motorcycle licence?

If you have an Irish category B car licence then you can ride a 50cc moped scooter without taking any test, or applying for another licence – you just add the M category to your licence. You must insure the moped too.If you want to ride a 51cc-125cc or larger engine size scooter, and are aged 16 or older, then you need to apply for a provisional motorcycle, Category A1 licence. If you’re 18 years old you can apply for a category A provisional motorcycle/scooter licence. You are restricted to a 33bhp machine for the first two years and you then have two years to pass your motorcycle test.From December 1st 2007 all provisional or learner motorcycle/scooter riders in the ROI must wear a hi-vis tabard with the letter `L’ on it. The L must be at least 15cm tall.

Do I need to take the Theory test?

Yes, this applies to all moped, scooter, car or motorcycle licences. It’s a multiple choice quiz on the rules of the road, available at over 20 local centres across Ireland. Phone 1890 606 106 for details on costs and availability.

How old do I have to be to ride?

Aged 16 for a scooter or motorcycle up to 125cc, and 18 years old for 51cc and above size motorcycles and scooters.

Do I have to ride a restricted motorcycle on a provisional licence?

Yes, the rules are a bit complicated on this issue. The machine does NOT have to have a capacity limit on its engine size, but a power-to-weight ratio limit of 0.16kw/kg, or make no more than 33bhp. These are EU rules and difficult to understand without the aid of a calculator and the technical spec on a particular motorcycle. In short, a typical large sportsbike, like say an R1, Fireblade or Ducati 749 will NOT be available for learner riders, but bikes with relatively modest power – yet still carrying a fair bit of weight – like say a Harley-Davidson Electra Glide – may well be OK.

Your safest bet is to start on something reasonably small, light in weight and easy to handle in all conditions as a novice rider. Bikes like the Honda CBF500, Yamaha Fazer 600, Kawasaki Versys etc are all ideal and a motorcycle dealer will be able to restrict your machine to 33bhp if needed.Note; once you pass your motorcycle category A licence test you STILL have to ride a restricted 33bhp machine for two years after passing the test.

Do I need to take any training?

At present you do not. But insidebikes recommends training for all riders because you are especially vulnerable as a novice. The ROI training situation may well change soon, as the Irish government has indicated that new rules will come into effect. The laws will make novice riders complete a set number of hours compulsory basic training before going onto the public roads. You may find that taking training helps lower your insurance costs, which is always good. If you have completed a training course, then call Carole Nash on 1800 298 550 to find out if you can save money on your motorbike insurance premium.

I own a basic trailbike from the 80s, can I take my motorcycle test on that?

Yes, you can take the motorcycle test on any roadworthy machine. So it doesn’t need to have indicators or even a brake light fitted. If they are fitted, they have to work however and the bike must have a headlamp. You may use hand signals and the `lifesaver’ glance over the shoulder instead of mirrors during the test.

What kind of skills do I need to practise to pass the Irish motorcycle test?

The test is similar to old UK motorcycle test from the 70s and 80s, basically a few questions on the rules of the road, and then an examiner will either follow you in a car, or observe on foot, whilst you do some basic riding. A feet-up U turn is usually required, plus some slow riding at `walking pace.’You will be asked to demonstrate that you understand how controls like the horn or the machine’s kill switch work, or how the drive chain is adjusted too.