Alston
Added on Thursday, February 7th, 2008 by Carole Nash Editor
This is a trip across England’s shoulders, a rollercoaster ride over old Pennine drover’s tracks and a genuinely wild countryside. Four counties can be visited in just over an hour by motorcycle on this route; Cumbria, Northumbria, Durham and Yorkshire…even if you stick to the speed limit. Oh, and one last thing..bring your thermals - even in June.
The Route
We start in the old market town of Penrith, which is a good place to fuel up and don your waterproofs if the clouds look threatening.
Within a few miles of leaving Penrith, the A686 soon begins to rise, zigzagging through the side of Cross Fell, and throwing every kind of corner at your front wheel. Think carefully before you attack the turns however, as the surface is terrifically variable and can suddenly transform itself into something akin to a motocross track at times - most corners are totally blind as well.
Follow the A686 all the way up and just after a real pearler of a hairpin, you will see the Hartside cafe on your right. This is a well known biker hangout at weekends, but recently the Police have stepped up marked and unmarked patrols, set up radar traps etc. after a spate of tragic accidents.
After a break at Hartside, set off downhill to Alston, England’s highest village. Alston has an incredibly steep main street however, so don’t attempt any fancy U-turns on your Gold Wing unless you’re confident in your bike-handling abilities.
From Alston, stick with the A686, following signs for Hexham. The terrain gets more undulating, tree-lined much of the way, so watch out for damp patches on the road, even in summer. Take a right, onto the B6305, just before reaching the town of Hexham. Then take the B6306 for Blanchland - keep your eyes peeled, because it’s a narrow junction which is easy to miss.
Again, we’re moving upwards, switchbacking onto the moors - watch for some hairpins - and eventually catching a glimpse of the Derwent Reservoir on your left. It’s a narrow road in places, and again, there’s the odd wandering sheep to contend with, so don’t go fully mental. The road drops down into the quaint village of Stanhope, which is a popular area for walkers, so slow down.
Go straight on at Stanhope village square, still on the B6306, now aiming for Middleton in Teesdale. Watch for the right turn about five or six miles out of Stanhope, where the road then dips down sharply and gets very narrow. Middleton is a good place for a break, with plenty of spaces on the High Street to pause and chat to other bikers - the paper shop does a very decent ice cream cornet too.
Go back along the High Street and take the left fork onto the B6277, which is signed for Alston. There’s a sharp bend as you leave Middleton, so take care. The road rises gradually, tree lined at first, then onto open moors once more.
Stunning scenery surrounds you during the last 10 miles or so to Alston once again - this route really is a tour across some of England’s wild open spaces. Take it especially easy on Sundays - the Police have a hundred places to hide with their radar traps up here…otherwise, just enjoy the ride.
Police File
Regulars at Hartside cafe reckoned recent accidents - including a fatality - had raised the level of Police activity on weekends. A feature in MCN on the A686 also seemed to increase the chances of being pulled. To be fair, it’s an extremely hazard-packed road, with few places that look like safe places for serious speed. Unmarked cars and bikes have been reported around Alston.
Biker Beds
The Cumberland Hotel Alston has a restaurant on site, with views across the river - plus drying rooms for wet kit - very handy. Albert House B&B in Alston also has drying facilities, plus tea/coffee all rooms, laundry service etc.
Pitstops
Hartside Cafe is the prime eaterie on this loop, with a sunny Sunday (fairly few of those up at 2,000 feet above sea level) attracting over 200 bikers. Great food, very fair prices and absolutely amazing views all the way across the Solway to Scotland.
Alston village has a couple of cafes on its cobbled main street, plus pubs. Hexham has plenty of choice food wise, with a busy market on the weekends too - great place to stay for a long weekend. Blanchland and Stanhope are quite small places - you’ll find more choice for food in Middleton, with added bonus of being able to park your bike in one of the main street’s parking spaces.
Alternatively, you could stay in Penrith, or over in Richmond, if you want the extra cafes, pubs and restaurant facilities that a small town can offer during a 4-7 day holiday. The roads all around this area make exploration on two wheels a treat, regardless of whether your bike is a Aprilia Mille or a Kymco Zing.
