What started out as a tourist board’s initiative to promote economic growth in the Highlands has, in just a few years, become a bucket list road trip for bikers around the world. Launched in 2015, the North Coast 500, is 516 miles of twisting tarmac and stunning scenery. It the antithesis of America’s arrow straight (and did we say a bit boring?) Route 66.
It attracts all kinds of people in all kinds of transport, from bicycles to fast cars, caravans and coaches. And while getting stuck behind motorhomes can be a chore for motorcyclists, the NC500 is a route best enjoyed at a sedate pace. Chill out, relax and enjoy the ride…
It goes around in circles!
While there’s no doubt Route 66 was part of the inspiration for creating the North Coast 500, as we’ve already said, the two couldn’t be more different. Where most iconic routes go from point-to-point, part of the NC500’s genius is that it is a circular lap of the Highlands, allowing visitors to jump in and out of the prescribed route and to take in their own itinerary.
But the recognised start and finish point of the NC500 is Inverness, the largest city in the Highlands. There’s an airport and train station, with direct daytime and sleeper trains to London, and plenty of hotels. There are some motorbike hire companies in the area, who can provide a suitable machine upon which to tackle the route, as well as the riding gear, but if you’re riding up (as most UK visitors will) the road from Edinburgh to Inverness is a pretty interesting way to spend half a day in itself.
Setting off from Inverness
The NC500 follows the east coast north from Inverness through Caithness, crosses the remote north coast through Sutherland, and returns south via the spectacular west coast through Wester Ross. It can be completed all year ‘round, in either a clockwise or anti-clockwise direction. Winter’s not great on a bike, to be honest, but if you love a challenge then no-one’s stopping you.
As well as the cold and generally bad weather, a lot of the hotels and eateries are closed out of season, so let’s assume you’re wanting to avoid the worst of it. The height of summer brings its challenges too. It’s busy, such is the popularity of the route, with lots of motorhomes snarling up the roads and tourists from around the world congregating at the most popular spots.
And the infamous midges will be out in force too! Take some repellent and a good neck tube if you want to stand the best chance of avoiding being bitten.
Spring or autumn would be our preferred time. It’s the north of Scotland, so the weather’s not guaranteed ever. Take a big coat, as the locals would say… or some good waterproofs for when you’re on the bike.
While 500 miles might not seem like a lot – a big day in the saddle or a weekend at most – it’s a trip to be savoured rather than hurried. At the height of summer there are 18 hours of daylight hours this far north, so big days can be possible, but we don’t recommend it. Don’t be thinking that you can munch the miles on your motorbike. The nature of the roads, often single tracks, mean average speeds are quite low through significant stretches. If you really want to enjoy it, make at least a week of it.
If you just want to do part of the route, head west from Inverness and take in some of the best bits, but the favoured route is to go anti-clockwise, which means heading north through Easter Ross and into Caithness, hugging the coast up the A9 to John O’Groats. It’s the northernmost settlement in mainland Britain and a picture by the sign is almost obligatory.
Head west, through the town of Thurso and Dunnet Point (which is the actual physical northernmost point of the mainland), and the road gets more challenging, and the scenery more stunning as you ride along the actual north coast.
You’ll really want to take your time through Sutherland, one of the least populated areas of Europe, where the mountains meet the sea and castles are scattered throughout the landscape. The riding is good too, with long open sections of road interspersed with the odd tight corner. The open moorland can bring its challenges too, though, with errant wildlife, gusty conditions and heavy rain always a distinct possibility.
You’ll take in the stunning Kylesku bridge and the infamous B869 Drumbeg road, which is a spectacular but demanding single-track stretch that should be enjoyed at a sedate pace. These roads require particular care to navigate. Expect to find oncoming traffic (as well as sheep and deer) in the middle of the road, so take extreme care and utilise the designated passing places which you’ll find at regular intervals.
Tackling Bealach na Bà
The run down through Wester Ross, heading back south down the west coast, brings some real bucket list riding. Some of the best riding roads on the route can be found around here, including the A832 between Gairloch and Ullapool, the A896 around Torridon, before the open road turns into single lanes and mountain passes.
This region is about as remote as it gets in Britain. Flanked by Loch Kishorn and Loch Torridon, the Applecross Pass, or Bealach na Bà as it is properly known, rises from sea level to over 600m and is another one of the NC500’s highlights. It’s a challenging ride, but one you have to take in, being another single-track road and switching back through sharp hairpins you’d expect to find on an Alpine pass.
The good thing here is that you’re free of caravans and other large vehicles, it’s just not suitable for them, and the reward is a stunning view out to the Atlantic and the Isle of Skye. Make sure you have provisions and take a break, because that ride down is arguably even more challenging. Select a low gear, use the engine braking and let gravity do its thing!
Weather can change dramatically anywhere on the NC500, but particularly here on the west coast and over Bealach na Bà. Fog can roll in quickly and conditions change within minutes. Expect the unexpected. Come prepared and don’t be afraid to park up and let it pass. They say that you can experience four seasons in one day in Scotland, and that very often is the case. Just as the weather can quickly turn bad, there’s often a rainbow on the horizon soon too.
From Applecross we’re heading inland and back to Inverness. These last 80 miles can be knocked out in a couple of hours if you want. It’s great riding and after the intensity of the mountain passes it’s nice to be back on some flowing roads. Like the whole North Coast 500, there are always places to stop off. Where some classic routes, like Land’s End to John O’Groats, or Route 66, can sometimes feel like you’re ticking off the miles to complete a challenge, the NC500 feels more immersive.
There are no real boring bits. There’s no stretch of motorway to take you to the next ‘good bit’ and there’s much more flexibility to set your own agenda. The return to Inverness, in many ways, feels more natural than a point-to-point ride. The euphoria isn’t the same and while there’s a sense of satisfaction and achievement, the NC500 is definitely more about the journey than the destination.
Planning is important, but as a tourist board initiative it’s not as daunting as some big trips, because the hospitality industry is right behind it, and there’s lots of information out there. Accommodation ranges from campsites to boutique inns but booking ahead during peak months is wise. Fuel planning matters too, and while petrol stations can be found at regular intervals, some stretches are remote enough to warrant caution, particularly if you’re riding a bike with a small fuel tank. There are plenty of reasonably sized towns though, most notably Dingwall, Durness, Lochcarron, Gairloch, Ullapool, Thurso and Wick, so make sure to top up when you have the opportunity.
As we’ve said already, it’s a journey to be enjoyed rather than tackled. Sure, knocking the NC500 out in a couple of days ticks the box. You’ll have ridden the roads and smelled the nature in all its glory, but you won’t really have explored all it has to offer: the small towns, the caves, the castles, the distilleries.
To really enjoy it, three nights is probably the minimum we’d recommend – allowing you to take in a dram or two at one of the many distilleries on the route and to experience the local hospitality and camaraderie with fellow travellers – but even that’s pushing it.
We’d aim for at least a week, which gives more time to improvise and really take in the best the Highlands has to offer. Don’t worry that you can’t take it all in though, it’s a journey which you can do again and again, making a different itinerary to create a different experience.
It’s no wonder the North Coast 500 is so popular, and there’s no more immersive way to experience it than by motorcycle. However you ride it, the North Coast 500 remains one of the greatest motorcycle journeys in the UK.
North Coast 500 riding tips
- Plan ahead and book accommodation in advance, especially in July and August
- Expect single-track roads with passing places
- Watch for sheep, deer and cattle
- Fuel up whenever you can
- Avoid riding Bealach na Bà in heavy fog or high winds
- Ensure your bike and equipment are in good condition (as you would for any journey)
- If taking a passenger, make sure your motorcycle policy insurance covers pillions
Photos: Honda
