It’s a constant discussion I have with my biking buddies, do you carry on riding all winter? Or do you store your pride and joy and keep her safe, warm and dry all winter? I can see both sides of the argument, and it all depends on your bike, budget, and storage options.
I have a classic bike and a classic car, and neither touches road salt as they are hidden away all winter But, my road bike takes on whatever mother nature can throw at it. I can understand why you’d want to hibernate your pride and joy over winter, but equally riding in winter can be fun and keeps you sharp.
If you decide to go for the storage option, here is our guide to storing your bike this winter and making sure your bike is ready to go the moment daffodils start to show their yellow heads come spring.
Things to consider when storing your motorcycle over winter
Where? Think about where you’re going to store your bike; in a shed, garage, street, living room and so on. Have you got enough space? Will the kids be knocking into it as they try to get their bikes out? Will the other half be happy now there is a bike in the conservatory? Remember it’s going to be there for four or five months.
Fuel: Ideally you want to top up your fuel tank, as this prevents any corrosion and you can also add some fuel stabiliser while you’re there. That will stop it from going stale and gumming up the fuel injection system (or carburettors on older bikes). Don’t forget to switch off the fuel tap on those older bikes too. However, if you’re storing the bike in the house, check your home insurance, you may need to drain all fuel from the bike.
Exhaust: Condensation can form in the exhaust, so use a rag or tape up the opening of the silencer to prevent this. You want to make the exhaust airtight, as sheds and garages can become damp over winter. It goes without saying to make sure that the bike is cold before doing this.
Clean and lube: Take as much time as possible to make sure your bike is clean and immaculate before laying it up – like you can eat your dinner off it. Storing a dirty bike, especially one which has seen road salt is criminal. Take your time and make it the best clean of the year. If you don’t have time, pay someone else to do it, it will be worth it come spring. Use anti-corrosion spray on metal parts, but not the brake discs, and lube the chain thoroughly.
Oil: You don’t have to, but consider changing the oil. If the oil is old, it can cause sludge in the sump while stood over winter. Remember when you restart your engine next year the oil-pump will pick up that sludge oil first.
The battery in or out? – If you have power in your garage or shed, then purchase a trickle battery charger, which will maintain your battery and keep your alarm working. But if you don’t have power, then remove the battery from the bike, and keep the battery topped up indoors.
Security: If you’ve removed the battery and don’t have an alarm then you’ll need extra security, lock, ground anchor, etc. This all depends on where you are storing the bike, but the more security the better. Store all the keys to the locks in a safe place, but not with your bike key and make a note of this, so you’ll know where the keys are in spring. Keep the keys separate, then if your house is burgled, they may find the key to your bike, but not the locks, or the other way around. It does happen, don’t make it easy for them.
Cover up: You can pick up a bike cover from around £20. An indoor cover will keep dust away and protect the paint from scratches. An outdoor cover for a bike on the street or in the garden has obvious advantages and adds to security as well.
Tyres: Add a little more than the recommended pressures as you don’t want the bike to cause flat spots on the tyres. This is especially important on heavy bikes, like large adventure or touring bike. If possible, use paddock stands to raise the bike off the ground. Remember that you’ll be carrying out some more checks before heading back on to the road in the spring, when you will correct the tyre pressures.
Regular checks: If you wish, you can start your engine periodically, for example every four weeks, to let the oil and water circulate (if water cooled). Allow the engine to warm up naturally, there is no need to rev the engine. Remember to remove any exhaust plugs (see above) and make sure the room is ventilated with the garage doors open. If you’re able, turn both wheels manually through several full rotations – this is where the paddock stands come in useful. Don’t be tempted to use any of the brakes as they can stick or bind during storage. Have a quick look around, is anything dripping, are the wheels turning freely. It’s always best to hide away and check on your bike with a brew, usually when the Christmas tree needs getting out of the loft.
